Hoang Su Phi is famous for its terraced fields stacked layer upon layer, covering the hillsides like an impressive work of art painted by the skilled hands of humans. The harmonious blend of nature and culture creates a mesmerizing allure for anyone who sets foot in this land.
I. OVERVIEW OF HOANG SU PHI
When mentioning Ha Giang province, you’ve probably heard of the terraced fields at least once, the way farmers cultivate wet rice in the highlands of the country. In Hoang Su Phi, terraced fields are mainly concentrated in 5 communes, located in the western part of Ha Giang province, about over 100km from the city center.
Thanks to its beauty, rarity, and the demonstration of human intelligence and skill in conquering nature, the terraced fields of Hoang Su Phi have been honored with a National Heritage certificate by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.
Though not as prominent as other destinations in the Northwestern highlands, Hoang Su Phi attracts tourists by the terraced fields stretching across the sky. Everything is spread out endlessly before your eyes.
The villages are immersed in mist, vague and mysterious. Herds of cattle and goats graze lazily, and there are wildflowers, simple yet full of the essence of western Ha Giang’s poetic life. It’s all like a magnificent natural painting that perhaps everyone wants to see with their own eyes, to immerse themselves in the clouds and wind, to feel and to love.
II. WHERE IS HOANG SU PHI LOCATED?
Hoang Su Phi is located in western Ha Giang, a small district with a terrain mainly consisting of hills and mountains on the upper reaches of the Chay River. Formerly, it belonged to Binh Nguyen Prefecture, Tuyen Quang Province.
After independence, the territory of Hoang Su Phi also changed, including 24 communes and 1 town. The majority of the local mountainous people here belong to ethnic minorities. Currently, this is the area of 12 different ethnic groups, among which Mong, Nung, Dao, La Chi… are the majority. They live a simple, peaceful, and extremely diligent life.
When mentioning Hoang Su Phi, people often immediately think of the lush green terraced fields, stretching across the mountain slopes. An interesting experience that tourists should try here is to stroll on dirt roads, walk along streams, listen to the sound of flowing water, the chirping of birds… as if you are immersed in a peaceful life, close to nature.
To reach Hoang Su Phi, passing through the “Gate of Heaven” at Km17, tourists will see before them a vast space with overlapping mountain ranges, primeval forests, tea hills stretching endlessly, and terraced fields spreading out like stairs on the hillsides…
IV. GUIDE TO GETTING TO HOANG SU PHI
About 80km from the city center of Ha Giang, travelers can reach Hoang Su Phi by private or public transportation, or a combination of both. If coming from Hanoi, one can travel to Ha Giang and then proceed from the city center to Hoang Su Phi.
Public Transportation
To reach Ha Giang city, travelers can catch buses from My Dinh bus station. There are many sleeper buses departing for Ha Giang daily, usually around 8–9 PM, arriving at Ha Giang bus station around 5 AM.
From the city center of Ha Giang, travelers can rent motorbikes and travel back on National Highway 2 towards Tan Quang, then turn onto DT177 to Hoang Su Phi. Additionally, another route for motorbike travel to Hoang Su Phi is to go up to the Thanh Thuy border gate and cross Tay Con Linh to reach Hoang Su Phi.
Private Transportation
For those using private vehicles, there are several options to explore Hoang Su Phi. From Hanoi, follow National Highway 2 towards Hoang Su Phi, and after visiting and experiencing the area, continue through Xin Man and Bac Ha before returning to Hanoi via Yen Bai. This itinerary forms a loop, eliminating the need to backtrack.
IV. BEST TIME TO VISIT HOANG SU PHI
Hoang Su Phi is special because each season brings its own unique beauty.
Spring (January to March)
During this time, visitors can participate in many unique cultural festivals for ethnic minorities. These festivals are characteristic of the Northwestern mountain people. In addition to the colorful and lively festivals, visitors in spring can also witness beautiful cherry blossom, pear blossom, and tea hills.
Summer (April to June)
This is the time when the terraced fields in Hoang Su Phi are flooded with water. Therefore, don’t forget to capture the sparkling sunlight on the terraced fields.
September each year
This is the best time to visit Hoang Su Phi. During this period, visitors can admire the ripe, golden terraced fields, creating an extremely romantic scene. This is also the ideal time to chase clouds in Hoang Su Phi.
From January to December
This is a special time for those who love experiencing the cold of Ha Giang.
V. PLACES TO VISIT IN HOANG SU PHI
Hoang Su Phi is renowned in the northwest region for its terraced fields, a majestic natural landscape rivaling that of Mu Cang Chai. Visitors to Hoang Su Phi always hope to witness this breathtaking scenery at least once.
1. Ban Phung Terraced Fields
Located near the border with China, Ban Phung commune is accessible from Vinh Quang town center via a winding mountain pass stretching nearly 20km to the heart of the commune. Not only does Ban Phung boast expansive valleys like Cao Pha and Muong Hoa, but its terraced fields also cascade down steep mountain slopes. Alongside Ban Luoc, this area is home to the highest terraced fields in Vietnam.
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2. Ho Thau Terraced Fields
A commune in Hoang Su Phi, Ho Thau, is approximately 16km from the intersection of Nham Dich communes. Ho Thau terraced fields are cultivated by the Red Dao ethnic people. They have a custom of leaving small patches of forest surrounding each section of the fields to prevent erosion.
Farming activities here involve simple tools like hoes, wooden plows, shovels, and sickles, conducted from high to low grounds. Ho Thau terraced fields are vast, positioned at high elevations, with expansive, gently sloping hillsides.
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3. Thong Nguyen Terraced Fields
Situated in the lower region where three major streams converge—Phin Ho, Nam Ong, and Nam Khoa—Thong Nguyen forms a flatland on the back of a mountain range. Many describe Thong Nguyen as the meeting point of mountains and water. It’s one of the most stunning terraced field viewing spots in Hoang Su Phi, with the most picturesque stretch located around km 24 on the road from Bac Quang to Hoang Su Phi.
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4. Luoc Village and San Sa Ho Terraced Fields
This area features moderate slopes, making it ideal for terraced farming. Additionally, the terraced fields here often form undulating waves and arcs. The terraced fields in this region are cultivated by the Red Dao and Nung ethnic groups.
5. Nam-Ty Terraced Fields
Also located at km24 on the road from Bac Quang to Hoang Su Phi, the Nam Ty terraced fields, cultivated by the Red Dao people, are recognized as a national heritage site of terraced fields in Hoang Su Phi.
6. Buckwheat flower fields
These flowers are characteristic of the rocky plateau, boasting a wild and mesmerizing beauty. Their white and pink blossoms annually attract numerous tourists to the rocky plateau. In recent years, buckwheat flowers have been planted on the terraced fields in Hoang Su Phi and Xin Man districts.
Visiting Hoang Su Phi at the end of autumn, just after the terraced fields are harvested, is the perfect time to witness the enchanting colors of buckwheat flowers replacing the golden hues of rice.
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7. Tay Con Linh Mountains
Stretching across Hoang Su Phi and Vi Xuyen districts, the Tay Con Linh mountain range is located 46km from Ha Giang town. At 2419m above sea level, it is the highest peak in Northeast Vietnam and one of the tallest in the country. The summit has a survey marker, while the lower slopes are home to preserved tropical rainforests. Tay Con Linh is also considered a sacred mountain range by the La Chi ethnic minority.
8. Chieu Lau Thi Peak
Chieu Lau Thi, locally known as “Nine-Story Staircase,” is located 42km from the center of Hoang Su Phi district. It’s one of the tallest peaks in Northeast Vietnam. The highest area of the peak consists of massive interconnected rock blocks, making it convenient for observation and offering views extending tens of kilometers on clear days.
9. Hoang Su Phi Market
The Hoang Su Phi market takes place every Sunday and serves as a hub for trading daily life necessities such as fruits, fabrics, sewing threads, and farming tools. Unlike bustling markets in urban areas, exchanges here are swift, leaving room for socializing.
Almost anything can be bartered, from eggs and honey to bags of noodles, umbrellas, or a bit of sewing thread. Despite being a small market, it’s rich in human connections, as it provides an opportunity for people to meet, admire beautiful clothes, and engage in conversations beyond just exchanging goods.
10. Po Lung Fort
Po Lung Fort located in Vinh Quang town, also known as Bốt Pháp, this military architecture was constructed by the French in the late 19th century. It comprises bunkers, trenches, and an interconnected network of fortifications on a hill east of Vinh Quang town in Hoang Su Phi district.
To build this military complex, the French colonists forced local people to transport materials like stone, sand, and water from the Chay River up a steep, over 3km mountain pass, excavate tens of kilometers of transportation trenches and tunnels, and level the ground for construction.
VI. WHAT TO EAT WHEN VISITING HOANG SU PHI
1. Hoang Su Phi Sticky Rice
For generations, the La Chi people of Hoang Su Phi have passed down a unique dish closely associated with the traditional rice cultivation on the terraced fields. The glutinous rice selected for this dish is ripe but not overly so; it was harvested early in the morning. If the grains are too young, the sticky rice will be too soft to process, and if they are too mature, they will crumble when pounded.
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2. Mac Khen Peppers
Mac Khen peppers are considered the soul of Northwestern cuisine and a highly distinctive spice in Hoang Su Phi. Every November, during harvest time, locals climb trees to pick the clusters, then hang them in shaded spots or on kitchen rafters to last the whole year.
Mac Khen peppers have a strong, spicy taste akin to pepper but with a unique tingling sensation on the tongue. They are often used in grilling, frying, and especially in Chẳm chéo, a unique dipping sauce of the Highlands.
3. Black Pork Sausage
A quintessential specialty of Hoang Su Phi is the black pork sausage. Black pigs, common in highland areas, have flavorful, lean meat. The sausage is typically made from thinly sliced pork shoulder marinated with salt, sugar, white wine, ginger water, and finely ground dried Mac Khen peppers.
The meat is then stuffed into bamboo tubes, tied, and hung on kitchen rafters or dried in the sun. This dish carries the aroma of the Highlands, kitchen smoke, and a hint of Mac Khen pepper, creating a harmonious blend. The firm texture of the bamboo, combined with the sweetness of the lean meat, creates a delightful taste.
4. Bamboo-tube Rice
The technique for making bamboo-tube rice here is simple: glutinous rice is soaked in water, cooked with underground spring water, and placed in bamboo tubes sealed with banana leaves. Young, hollow bamboo is selected, and each segment has one end closed off, acting as the pot bottom.
The rice is washed, mixed with a bit of salt, filled into bamboo tubes, and topped with water just below the rice surface. The tube opening is sealed with fresh palm leaves or dried banana leaves and grilled over fire or charcoal.
5. Terraced Field Carp
Not only do the breathtaking terraced fields impress visitors with their majestic beauty, undulating amidst clouds and winding along the mountains, but during the ripe rice season in Hoang Su Phi, tourists also get captivated by a fascinating culinary delight: terraced field carp. Most of Hoang Su Phi’s rice fields are utilized by locals to raise carp, enhancing their livelihoods and income.
6. Goat Meat
While goat meat is often associated with Ninh Binh, it’s also a delicacy in Hoang Su Phi. Here, visitors can enjoy goat meat raised naturally in the Tay Con Linh mountain range, benefiting from the cool climate, resulting in particularly fragrant and delicious meat.
7. Dried buffalo meat
Dried buffalo meat embodies the unique flavors of the terraced fields’ land. Marinated with various spices and naturally dried on kitchen rafters, this buffalo meat has a rich, chewy, and delicious taste. The best way to enjoy kitchen raft buffalo meat is to grill it over an open flame or cook it into a flavorful stew.
8. Au Tau Porridge
Au Tau porridge is a specialty of Ha Giang province in general and Hoang Su Phi in particular. From the simplest, most rustic ingredients, the locals here know how to create delicious dishes. Made primarily with glutinous rice and pork shank cooked with au tau tubers, this dish is truly unique.
VII. WHERE TO STAY IN HOANG SU PHI?
Alongside sightseeing spots and transportation, accommodation is a key concern for many travelers visiting Hoang Su Phi. As an attractive and renowned destination, the lodging options in Hoang Su Phi can cater well to the needs of visitors.
1. Hotels and guesthouses
Hotels and guesthouses in Hoang Su Phi are primarily concentrated in Vinh Quang town. Room rates are reasonable, with adequate facilities to meet travelers’ needs. During peak tourist seasons, it’s advisable to book your accommodation in advance to ensure a place to stay overnight.
2. Homestays
Community-based ecotourism in Hoang Su Phi is increasingly thriving, with homestays being an important component. This has become a popular lodging option in Hoang Su Phi. Homestays are concentrated in villages such as Nam Ty, Ban Luoc, Thong Nguyen, Ho Thau, Ban Phung, etc. Over time, the quality of homestay services has improved, meeting the needs of travelers effectively.
Staying at homestays allows you to get closer to nature and the local people’s way of life, offering you extremely unique and immersive experiences.
VIII. TRAVEL TIPS FOR VISITORS.
To have the most fulfilling trip to Hoang Su Phi, consider the following travel tips:
- The best time to visit the terraced fields of Hoang Su Phi is during the ripe rice season in September and October each year.
- The weather in Hoang Su Phi during the rice-ripening season can be chilly, so bring warm pants to maintain body heat.
- The roads to the terraced fields are steep, so be cautious when traveling by motorcycle. Remember to fill up on gas as mountainous roads consume a lot of fuel, and there aren’t many refueling points along the way.
- Book your accommodation as early as possible, especially during the tourist season.
- Plan a specific travel itinerary regarding stops, destinations, and attractions.
- If you intend to conquer mountain peaks, prepare comfortable and warm clothing, as well as protective gear.
- If you’re unsure about directions, don’t hesitate to ask local residents.
- Bring along some dry snacks and drinks for the journey.
These are comprehensive and detailed travel experiences from A to Z for visitors to Hoang Su Phi. Keep them in mind and embark on your journey right now with Ula Travel.
